Rarely does one get a chance to discuss all things luxury with Hervé Deschamps. We consider ourselves lucky and made the most of our time with him speaking about Perrier-Jouët, his role, how to buy the best bottle of Perrier-Jouët for any occasion and more. He is an iconic cellar master and only the 7th person in 200 years to hold that designation. Read on for a luxurious dose of champagne moments with Hervé Deschamps.
Can you tell us about yourself and how you got into the Champagne business?
My grandfather was a wine grower in the Champagne region of France and I tried some Champagne when I was young. After that, I decided to study Oenology and then I joined the Perrier-Jouët house in 1983 and worked for 10 years to understand and learn the Perrier-Jouët style. In 1993 I became the 7th cellar master for them and its very important to me to maintain the quality and also to create a new product in our existing range, such as the Belle Époque Blanc de Blanc. It is a pleasure for me to speak about Perrier Jouet Champagne.
In addition to your degree in winemaking, how did you learn your skills?
It’s like cooking. You can own a nice cooking book with pretty pictures but if you don’t practice, you don’t create. It’s very important to create and understand what is the wine before the second fermentation. When you make the blend, its still wine, it’s only after the second fermentation in the bottle that you can see the result.
When you are cooking, you try the best ingredients and then you have to wait. Similarly, with wine, it’s very important to create. You can wait 3-6 years for the result, but change is possible. Apart from base liquor, you can play around with the blend and make your own creations.
How did Perrier-Jouët Maison come into being and what makes it so special?
Perrier-Jouët is a story of two lovers–Pierre-Nicolas Perrier and Rose Adélaide Jouët who created the brand in 1811. They had a passion for not only champagne but flowers too. They had a winter garden full of orchards and palm trees and lots of flowers. They created a special blend of flowery aroma and chardonnay. Chardonnay is the most elegant and delicate grape variety we can find in Champagne. In over 200 years there have only been seven cellar masters to maintain their style.
Perrier-Jouët is famous for its Art Nouveau-style bottles. Can you tell us more about the relationship between Perrier-Jouët and the art world?
Its always been important for the brand to have a strong relationship with art and it has a strong connection with Emile Gallé, a glassmaker who after trying some of the champagne created a special decoration of Japanese white anemone that has adorned the bottles ever since. Since 2012, we have associated with Design Miami, and young artists like, Daniel Arsham, Mischer’ Traxle, Ritsue Mishima, Miguel Chavelier, Noé Duchaufour-Lawrance, Studio Glithero and Simon Heijdens.
In the world of Champagne, who do you admire and why?
For me, it’s very important to respect the previous cellar master. The previous cellar master was like a father to me and helped me understand the in-house style and develop the same product despite a good or bad crop. Of course, when it’s an expectational year we made bottles of Belle Époque.
What do you find to be the hardest part of the winemaking process?
The harvest is very short, a maximum of 3 weeks during the year. You have the juice but you don’t have wine. For me, the most stressful period is the 2-3 months after the harvest when I try the still wine and either have a dream or a nightmare to create the next blend.
What advice does Hervé Deschamps have for those aspiring to be a winemaker?
It’s very important to be curious and sensible and to maintain the same atmosphere. You aren’t supposed to reinvent the champagne process but to stabilize and adapt it to new technology and always respect the same quality.
What do you drink when you aren’t drinking your own wines?
Water…(laughs). I prefer a White wine to a Red Wine.
How does one choose the right champagne for any occasion? Are there any rules you stick to when selecting?
I think its really important to remember why you are buying the bottle. Is it for a friend? A celebration? Or for lunch or dinner. For celebrations, it is important to choose a blend that has a lot of chardonnay. Chardonnay is more fresh, delicate and much more acidic than pinot noir. It is not necessary to buy a vintage one. I find vintage is much better for food pairing with seafood and white meat. But always remember it’s for your guest, not only for yourself.
What is your favorite food pairing with a glass of champagne?
For the Blanc de Blanc I suggest some raw fish and scallops. The three blend variety goes with canapé or aperitif. The Belle Époque works well with special dishes like turbot fillet with some creamy saffron sauce. And for Rose, I prefer red meat like pigeon or duck and dessert.
The Perrier-Jouët Garden Of Wonder Pop-up
It is running at Pacific Place until April 8 from 11am-8pm every day and hosts multiple activities including “Surprise Happy Hours”, DIY Floral Painting and Tasting Session.
Perrier-Jouët has also bagged the title as the official Champagne Sponsor of the amfAR Gala dinner in Hong Kong. The Foundation held its fourth annual fundraising gala in Hong Kong on March 26, 2018, at Shaw Studios, honoring world-renowned artist KAWS and philanthropist Cathy Lee for their dedication to the fight against HIV/AIDS.
For more visit www.perrier-jouet.com
