A buzz fills the room as journalists and critics sit down for an intimate interview with none other than Chef Michael White. Ahead of the iconic restaurant Marea’s launch in the city, we were invited to experience one of New York’s finest Italian creations.
With a wide smile that never left his face and often cracking jokes in between laid-back conversation, it’s easy to see why Michael White has been named one of the most influential New Yorkers under 40 by “Crain’s New York Business”. His accolades range from Michelin recognition to rave “New York Times” reviews, but a down-to-earth character weaved with confidence and charm is what sets him apart.
Tell us a little bit about your Asia experience and your other restaurant in Hong Kong.
Yes of course. Al Molo in Hong Kong is located in the beautiful Victoria Harbour and city environment. It’s really kind of a mix and a hodgepodge of all things we do. It’s not like Marea or anything specific. It has lots of different aspects in terms of cuisine.
Do you often visit your restaurants around the world?
I travel a lot and now with Shanghai soon opening, I am confident I can visit even more. My fantastic team makes it easier to spend time and travel now. We’re more than a thousand strong in New York and we have more structure in terms of managing multiple locations. After more than a decade in this industry. I’m grateful to have a great team that allows me to travel whether it’s going to Istanbul, London, Hong Kong, Washington DC or absolutely anywhere.
How often do you visit each restaurant?
I love roaming around the world. I go back and forth during special events but an average would be twice to one place a year. The exciting part of coming to Shanghai or Hong Kong is that it’s an international city and there are so many synergies in between. In Hong Kong, there is an impressive ability to get so many products and so many things for the restaurant.
Do you prioritize using local or regional produce for ingredients?
I love to embrace the ingredients that we can procure here. Unfortunately in Hong Kong, for example, people are more keen on things from elsewhere. It’s something I fight with eternally because like with mantis shrimp, for example, it makes the most amazing broth or if you got crabs from the local market under the bridge for HK $5 that’s amazing to me but with other people that might seem unacceptable. Hong Kong is an amazing city and I feel like when people talk about products they underestimate it.
Where do you get inspiration for your culinary creations?
Ohhh, I tell you years ago in 1990 when I started in Spiaggia and Italian food just started making waves and the likes of risotto and prosciutto were just getting recognized in America, that was overwhelming. Having worked in Italy for more than 7 years, I can assure you that I eat, sleep and dine in Italian in every way. I even married one [laughs]. Everything I do is Italian.
What keeps you motivated?
By never stopping, I’m like a bluefin tuna if they stop they die [laughs]. Whether it’s out to eat roast goose or try a different kind of dim sum, I’m definitely all over every place when I travel. I’m an extremist when it comes to eating. I was talking to Anthony Bourdain and he asks me, Where’s the best place you ate lately? He was just asking because topics such as that—we’re both stimulated by new innovations and finds in the culinary scene.
Do you run the brand’s social media yourself? How do you promote it?
I must say for the customer and young clients, it’s going to be perpetually in the business. People are so excited about pictures and food. I’m talking to you about food right now. It wasn’t like this 10 year ago. Now, young people can look at something and think they can make it. That’s the curse. My hope is that the bloggers and critics ask more questions rather than deciphering themselves without asking the right questions.
What should we pay attention to when we dine from a chef’s perspective?
Italian flavors consist of textures and you have to explore it with all of your senses.
What will be the key differences of Marea in Shanghai versus New York?
While the essence of New York’s Marea will be brought to Shanghai, the space is bigger in New York than Shanghai. We’ve looked at Shanghai and Plaza 66 for years. It’s the reference point for luxury in Shanghai and can’t wait for the restaurant to officially open.
We’ve often spoken about places we want to go along the road. And yes, we think about Beijing, Guangzhou, and Shenzhen because this is Asia’s time right now and I mean that in the most sincere way.
There are 1.4 billion in this part of the world. We’ve come here and have been welcomed with open arms. Someone told me the other day, “we’re excited for you to be here and teach our young people new craft and experience”. And after 27 years in the industry and I’m not being cocky when I say this—that’s exactly what makes me feel good about myself.
While I am bent on building a business, it’s essential for people who have worked with us to also succeed in their lives and that honestly makes me feel great.
Plaza 66 is tucked away on the bustling West Nanjing Road in Jing’an District. On the forefront of China’s luxury and lifestyle commercial developments, the ultimate destination will feature only the most distinguished luxury brand and tenant list.
Plaza 66 1266 Nanjing Xi Road, Shanghai, China, www.plaza66.com/en
Marea Shanghai will feature an updated and more modern design aesthetic, reflecting the vibrancy and lifestyle of its location, while still maintaining the subtle elegance the New York restaurant is known for. Situated on the 3rd floor, the 464 square meters of space will include just 85 seats, including three private rooms. With a lower seat count, Marea hopes to emphasize the quality of food and the focus on highly personalized client attention and service.
For more information about Michael White’s restaurants around the world, visit his website: altamareagroup.com
